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Everest Base Camp Trek - Review
This short article will give you an insight into the Everest Base Camp trek, without the commercial rubbish!!
Overall this trek is indeed one the world's greats. It is not the most physical of treks I've done but it is no stroll in the park either. There are a few long steep climbs but nothing more than 2 hours each. The altitude, the cold and basic conditions of the tea houses higher up (dictated by the cold temperatures) are the things that you will remember and make the Everest Base Camp trek difficult.
Bank on at least 8 days to get to Everest Base Camp, nothing less or you will seriously risk Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). An additional 4 days down (although it can be done in 3 at a push) will see you comfortably back to Lukla.
The whole journey up to Lukla from the hustle and bustle of the domestic airport to the flight itself to landing on the infamous (but dangerous) Lukla airpstrip is memorable. Lukla is regarded as the most dangerous airport in the world and for good reason.
Depending on your flight time, most people will either overnight at Pfadking or Monjo on their first night and then be hitting Namche Bazaar on night 2. The ascent up to Namche is big (work on 2 hrs for the hill alone) and made worse by the fact that it is your first BIG hill. You will also get the chance (weather permitting) to see Mt Everest in the distance.
Namche sits at about 3500m and is by far the biggest village in the Everest trekking region. It has lots of little shops, internet cafes (speed is slow despite the 'broadband' signs!) and a few bars. The village is well placed as after a couple of days trekking, if you suddenly realised that you have fogotten something, you can get it here (even currency).
You should acclimatise at Namche by spending 2 nights here (or close by). Your 'spare' day will be spent trekking up above Namche to see the views from there; superb. You could try and stay at Khumjung or Kunde (which is what we generally do) as it's about the same altitude and also somewhere else to stay (variety).
From here, you trek onto Tengbouche, which is where the big Monastery is and also the infamous German Bakery (has to be done!!). Overnight here and then trek onto Pferishe.
At Pferishe, the serious stuff begins. You are now at 4200m and from experience, the altitude begins to really take effect (for most). The Nepalese Rescue Association (NRA) medical station isn't located here for nothing! It's a fairly safe altitude (having acclimatised) and the helicopters can also reach here safely. You will spend another 2 nights here, once again during your spare day, trekking up higher and coming back down again (trek high, sleep low).
Assuming all is well, you trek onto Lobouche (4900m), which is probably the worse place on the trek. The tea houses are not brilliant in Lobouche and due to the lack of bed spaces, it can be a real bottle neck. We often stop short at Dughla but it makes the following day too long.
From Dughla to Lobouche, you will have been trekking along the side of the Khumbu glacier and gone through the memorial ground of many climbers who have perished on Everest and the surrounding mountains; quite a moving place. Be sure to rest and spend a little time here.
Next stop is Gorak Shep but just for a rest as you steam through on your way to Everest Base Camp. It's about 3 hrs from Gorak Shep to Base Camp although lately they appear to have set up a sign short of what is the Base Camp itself. I can only assume that it is to stop the trekkers from entering Base Camp and basically being a nuisance!
You will return to Gorak Shep and sleep there (5100m). This is the highest tea house in the region. Before dawn, you will get up and head up to Kala Patthar, which is a 5500m peak overlooking Everest Base Camp to see the sun rise over the mountain tops. It's a stiff 90min climb and likely to be very cold too so be prepared.
Once you have descended back down to the tea house and had a good breakfast for you will further descend back down the trail past Lobouche, Dughla and then onto Dingbouche, which is next to Pferishe. It's a great walk, seemingly fast from what you have been used to. It's premominantly downhill, getting warmer and lower in altitude.
The next few days will see you back through Namche and then finally down to Lukla. Most people feel great having descended back into warmer temperatures and lower altitude.
Finally, a good shower in a good tea house in Lukla in preparation for your flight back down to Kathmandu.
Other associated Everest treks: Everest Trekking Experience, Island Peak and Everest Base Camp, Gokyo Lakes Trek, Everest High Passes Trek.
